The case
Any small project box that fits the parts will do: plastic is easiest to drill. A box shaped like an old external modem looks the part, low and wide, with the screen and the lamps across the front.
What the case needs
| Where | Opening |
|---|---|
| Front | A window for the OLED: our printed case uses about 26.5 x 11.5 mm for its 128 x 32 module. Measure yours. |
| Front | Eight 5 mm holes in a row for the lamps, PWR on the left to NET on the right. |
| Top, side or bottom | Holes or a grille in front of the speaker, so you can hear the call. |
| Back | The DC barrel socket. |
| Back | The DA15 socket: the PC connection, USB and serial on one connector. |
| Back | The power switch, if you fit one. |
Tips
- Try the fit before you solder. Mount the screen and the LEDs in the front panel first, then cut the wires to length.
- The screen has glass on the front: hold it from behind with a small bracket or two M2 screws through its mounting holes, and never tighten a screw against the glass.
- The memory card should stay reachable, or the lid easy to open: you may want to take the card out to flash a new image or to bring back the setup hotspot (see troubleshooting).
- Insulate every joint with heat-shrink and fix the boards down, so nothing can short against anything else when the lid closes.
A printed case
We are working on a 3D-printed case, about 150 x 88 x 34.4 mm, with the screen window, the eight lamp holes, and the DA15, the barrel socket and the power switch along the back. It is still in fit trials. We'll say so in the news when it is ready.
Next: putting it together.